Title: panoramic vision
How deep is the water in the fabric?
Best friend: silica (800 + approved, sales manager of Zhejiang dye chemical Bao Testing Service Co., Ltd.)
I graduated from light chemical engineering, and I am also the largest fabric distribution center in Asia, Keqiao, Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province.
The water in the fabric is so deep that it obscures your daily perception of the fabric.
Fabric is made of yarn, we always mistake the performance of fabric = the performance of fiber itself.
For example, pure cotton fabric should absorb water, and chemical fiber fabric should be airtight.
However, these two kinds of public impression can be reversed by special treatment.
The printing and dyeing factory can immerse the fabric in fluorocarbon polymer solution, and make the cotton fabric waterproof through certain baking process. As described in my article, two kinds of organic solvents are insoluble and insoluble in water. What are these organic solvents?
This can improve the performance of fabrics, in our industry has become a printing and dyeing auxiliaries.
Now in 9102, the dyeing of fabrics is no longer a problem. There is a saying in the industry: there is no color that can't be dyed, only fabric that can't be made.
Today's printing and dyeing plants do not only dyeing, but also fabric and fabric differentiation. And how to achieve product differentiation, we must use different printing and dyeing auxiliaries.
Ironless shirt
For example, today's common ironless shirt, no longer like the traditional shirt, can't be put around after taking off, can't be squeezed casually, otherwise it will form wrinkled creases, and needs to be ironed every time before going out. With the appearance of ironless shirt, people's life is greatly facilitated.
The fabric that can achieve this effect must use a printing and dyeing assistant called fabric crease resistant finishing agent. The main component is resin crosslinker.
Because it is inevitable for cotton fabric to fold, which is related to its own structure. There are many amorphous areas between cellulose, so that part of the long chain of cellulose can move freely. Under the influence of external force, the long chain of cellulose will be extruded and deformed to form a fold, while the resin crosslinker can form a cross-linking with cellulose, and the elastic resin crosslinker itself is like a spring, The displaced long cellulose chain can be pulled back to its original position.
At the same time, the - Oh hydroxyl group on the cellulose fiber was blocked during the crosslinking process, which weakened the van der Waals force between the long cellulose chains and further improved the wrinkle resistance.
However, in the cross-linked fabric, the gap between the fiber and the fiber is also blocked, resulting in poor moisture absorption and air permeability, water vapor can not be discharged from the surface of the clothes freely, it will be more sultry, and the comfort will be reduced.
If it's just a drop in comfort, it's easy to say. After all, it's a great convenience for us. We don't need to iron clothes every time before we go out.
Resin cross-linking agent is a general term of Anti Wrinkle finishing agent, which has different cross-linking components and methods, and the most commonly used cross-linking method is formaldehyde, which is not only good and stable, but also very cheap.
But the toxicity of formaldehyde itself is self-evident. The aqueous solution of formaldehyde is also known as formalin, the secret to ensure that the corpse will not rot for thousands of years, because of its great biological toxicity.
Formaldehyde has also been identified as a primary carcinogen by the international food and drug administration!
In the process of daily wear, free formaldehyde will be released from the clothes slowly and penetrate into the skin. In the process of purchase, the salesperson will only tell you about the convenience and some disadvantages of this kind of wrinkle resistant clothes, but not the disadvantages.
In fact, the people they sell don't know, because the water of clothing fabric is very deep, and the industry span is large, so every employee can't have my professional level.
So when choosing clothes with anti wrinkle characteristics, we must choose big brands and middle and high price products, after all, the body is our own.
Auxiliary barrel stacked in printing and dyeing factory
Softener
It is often found in life that after washing the comfortable clothes several times, the hand will become stiff. You may complain about the poor water quality and the bad washing liquid.
In fact, the hand feel of clothes is bound to get worse with the increase of washing times, just because softener is used, and softener will decrease with the increase of washing times.
Common softeners include cationic softener and silicone oil softener. Cationic surfactant is also the main component of hair conditioner. It mainly depends on the hydrophobic agent attached to the fiber. The hydrophilic baseband has cationic charges which can repel each other and reduce friction.
The effect of silicone oil softener will be more obvious, because the energy required for the rotation of Si-O silicon oxygen bond in silicone oil is almost 0, and the two methyl groups on dimethylsilicone oil also occupy a larger space position, making the distance between the fibers increase, so as to improve the softness.
Silicone oil structural type
But softeners are resistant to washing times, because they do not have a strong binding force with the fiber itself, and they can be washed out by washing. Some people may say that the present clothes can't be worn for a long time, and they can wash them 20 times.
However, I'm sorry, according to our laboratory statistics, there are only about 5 times, and the soft effect is almost completely lost, very good only about 10 times.
But of course, we have a way to improve the washing resistance, that is to add cross-linking agent, like glue, to stick each other together. But the problem is back to the beginning, there may be excessive risk of free formaldehyde.
Food additives in clothes
In fact, today's fabrics and clothes have already become the same as modern food. Seemingly simple food, which has a dozen kinds of additives in it.
Like food additives, printing and dyeing auxiliaries bring new performance and better comfortable experience to clothes. At the same time, they also have many hazards like food additives.
It may be said that as long as it meets the national standards, but the test of clothing is much more difficult than the test of food. For example, the formaldehyde content of clothing is generally measured as free formaldehyde, but part of the combined formaldehyde is still in the clothing, it will only slowly dissociate with the daily use.
Waterproof, soft, discolored, antibacterial, aromatic, flame-retardant, wrinkle resistant, whitening, blackening, weight-added, fluorescent, mosquito repellent, etc., which can only be realized by adding different printing and dyeing auxiliaries.
The tip of the iceberg of professional books
How deep is the water of clothing fabric? Most practitioners don't know about it. So I want to take you to know more about clothing industry from a more professional perspective.
Super dry.
Fabric cost
Fabric price, auxiliary material price
Material consumption and embroidery cost per piece
Printing cost, washing cost
The cost of clothes can be roughly divided into the above aspects. The pure processing fee consists of the factory profits. So normally, the exact price of a garment must be purchased to find the same fabric and auxiliary material price, and the master uses the mark frame to discharge the consumed materials.
If the new model needs to produce paper samples and car samples, it also needs to calculate the proofing and car version fees. In addition, there are problems with your quality requirements and batch size (the cost of 1000 pieces and 100 pieces will certainly be different). The difference between the high and low will be very large. According to your requirements, the factory director will calculate the labor price and then get the accurate quotation.
Processing cost
Difference between the processing of incoming materials and the contracting of labor and materials:
Processing with supplied materials: the processing with supplied materials is different from that with contracted labor and materials. Normally, the processing factory does not have to bear any risk when processing with supplied materials from customers, so the garment processing factory only needs to report the normal processing fee.
Labor and materials contracting: if the factory is responsible for labor and materials contracting, the factory will pay for cloth purchasing, which is an investment behavior. Besides raw material cost and processing cost, the price quoted by the processing factory must also have its profit.
Generally speaking, the higher the risk is, the higher the profit required by the processing factory will be. For example, the risk of foreign orders is relatively higher than that of domestic orders, so the profit of foreign orders will generally be higher than that of domestic orders, of course, it depends on the customer.
The general profit standard of processing plant is 15% - 30%
Therefore, when you want to find a processing factory to contract labor and materials, you should have a bottom in your mind for the profit of the processing factory, generally the normal standard is between 15% - 30%.
Of course, there will be some processing plants that say, I only need 5% profit, I will do it for you. But the wool comes out of the sheep. If the profit is only 5% and the order is small, I think only the fool will take it.
The people who work as processing factories are all refined. No one can calculate the figures better than them. The profit is a little less. The single piece consumption and processing cost are calculated at a high point. If we pull back the whole, the total profit will certainly not be less.
Therefore, it also gives a suggestion to the majority of businesses. In the process of cooperation with your OEM factory, we should give them a little confidence, cooperate with you, with little risk, and place orders in time, so that the processing factory will reduce its profits in the process of cooperation with you.
How is the processing fee calculated?
There is a set of standards in this. In the garment processing industry, each place will have a set of industry standards according to the local salary level and factory scale.
How much is it to cut a dress, how much is it to put on a sleeve,
How much is the opening of a bag, how much is the zipper,
There is an industry standard for how much is the tail, etc.
The processing fee of a garment is to multiply the sum of all the wages paid to the bottom workers by the corresponding multiplier, which is given according to the scale of the factory. Normally, it is between 2.3-2.5. The larger the factory, the higher the multiplier.
For example, if the price of a piece of clothing to the bottom workers is 10 yuan, then the processing fee demanded by the factory from customers is 23-25 yuan. The extra ten yuan is the rent, water and electricity, tax and the boss's profit.
Of course, if there is no order for a small factory of ten people, it can be done by multiplying it by 1.8 or 2. If there are some large factories that make fine products, it is not necessary to do them by multiplying them by 3. It depends on the specific situation.
As for the price, many people like to bargain. It's clear that the small orders with a few cents are to be ground with the processing factory. The processing industry doesn't earn much money. If you press the factory's price hard, it may backfire. The most common thing is to delay your delivery period. If you can't get the bad quality, you need to add money in the middle. When you press the price, he knows that the price can't be made , he has to take it. He needs to raise the price after he receives your deposit.
I think it's better to have a few dimes of goods in time, with guaranteed quality, and be able to cooperate with you in processing later.
Batch problem
Another question about the price is the issue of batch. What kind of goods do garment producers like to make?
They are all piecework. They make money by output. They like to make large quantities of goods. A new type of goods is the slowest at the beginning. If there are only dozens of goods, a few talents just start to finish the goods. If they can't do it quickly, they won't get money if they can't get the efficiency. Now it's increasingly difficult to recruit people in the clothing industry. If the workers can't make money, they may want to change factories. So the boss wants to take a large number of orders Single.
The way to solve this problem in our factory is to add 30% of the standard price to the new models of less than 300 pieces, so that at least the workers can do it and guarantee the quality